Stow-on-the-wold

At Your Leisure Volume 1

An often-overlooked jewel in the Cotswolds’ crown, this historic market town is charming, plentiful and has an excitable undercurrent that many of the sleepier market towns lack… You just have to know where to look.

By Charlotte Ellis.

Tourists often make a beeline for the market town’s medieval St Edward’s church. The ancient Yew tree framed north doorway is said to have been an inspiration for J.R.R Tolkein’s Doors of Durin. Absolutely worth a visit.

800

Stow-on-the-wold: ‘holy place on the hill’ – is the highest town in the Cotswolds, approximately 800ft above sea level.

1,646

The year of the last major battle of the first English Civil War, which finished in Stow. Find the memorial statue in the market square.

20,000

A market town since 1106, 20,000 sheep would be herded in and sold during the 5-day cattle market, twice a year.

Time to indulge

Drink, Eat, Enjoy

The Queen’s Head, (a classic Donnington’s Brewery) is where to head to rub shoulders with the locals, who all have their spot at the bar. The Stag (Pub with rooms) mixes a mean Bloody Mary and has fireside seating in the cutesy bar area. It offers up a small but impressive seasonal menu, and has a garden and backyard seating for summertime.

For summer, head to The Old Stocks Inn (Hotel), or The Porch House (Pub with rooms) for an Al Fresco Aperol. The Porch House claims to be the oldest pub in Stow, with parts of the building dating back to 947 AD. It boasts 13 quaint bedrooms of varying sizes (tall people, you have been warned).

For posh nosh, The Old Butchers is the table to book. Secure your reservation well in advance to avoid disappointment, and if you’re around in the daytime, make the most of their set lunch deal.

For small and romantic, check out the newest kid on the block, Massimo, for wine, pasta and small plates.

The Talbot is Stow’s spot for live music with DJs and dancing until the wee hours. Check out their Instagram for details – updated weekly.

For the morning after the night before, head to The Hive for delicious breakfasts.

Caffeine Fix

It’s at Talbot Court you’ll find Otis and Belle, one of the best cups of coffee/loaves/pastries in Stow. This is closely followed by the New England Coffee House (find them located opposite the Cotswolds Chocolate shop – where the chocolate is made on site – peek through the back of the store to see the kitchen)… Do also check out Foletta – coffee and pastries, wine, nibbles, or something a little stronger come evening time.

Hosts with the most…

For feasting, find inventive, delicious dishes to take home, picnic, or entertain with (then call out as your own – wink wink) at D’ambrosi Fine Foods. While you’re there, stock up on luxurious pantry essentials you never knew you needed – and decadent hand-poured candles.

“Hosts with the Most” will also need Lambourne’s (best butchers around), the Cotswolds Cheese Company and Haynes Hanson & Clark wine merchants on their hitlist. That’s pretty much everything one might need for a 10/10 night in.

Thursdays sees the (small but perfectly formed) local farmers’ market come to the square. You’ll find bread and baked goods, cheeses, chutneys, local organic veg, eggs, woven baskets and sheepskins, pottery, local honey and CBD products.

Take a tour

If you’re interested in facts and delving a little deeper into the history and architecture of Stow-on-the-Wold, meet at the Stocks Green (in front of the Old Stocks Hotel) on Sunday morning at 1030am for a friendly and fascinating walking-talking tour. Runs from April to September. Approximately 90 minutes and £5 per person. Pay cash on the day. Book your place here.

Self Care

If you’re in the mood for pampering and self-care, Mihaela and the team at Beautoxology are on hand to bring you back to life with holistic treatments, as well as more medical spa and specialist offerings. Head to Candi Cox for manis and pedis, and for the ultimate pamper day, check out Bamford Spa, just an 8-minute drive.

Lay Your Head

If you want to make a weekend of it, Stow is full of interesting Airbnbs, but we’d highly recommend The Vaults. New to the market, these 3 beautifully finished apartments in an old bank bring design and comfort – right in the heart of it all.

Retail Therapy

The main square is home to fashion darlings’ luxury footwear designer, Penelope Chilvers, and beautifully curated bohemian styles at Echo and Dust. Find exclusive country essentials at Fairfax&Favor and Stow Country Clothing. POM-on-the-Wold serves up carefully curated colour and trend-conscious rails, while Beetroot (Sheep Street) is home to pre-loved collectables. Find kids’ clothes to fawn over at Rhubarb Rhubarb, while teens will be tantalised by the twinkling trinkets and accessories at the Sister Sister Collective.

Antiques aficionados can while away hours in the busy nooks and enclaves in the caramel coloured caverns that adorn Sheep Street, while magpies will revel in Tara’s Antiques (top of the main square), jam-packed with 3 floors of treasure, from over 30 dealers.

If you’re in the market for home inspiration, head to Rustique for charming home accessories – from sideboards, mirrors, beds and art to small kitchen utensils and French soap. Do also pop into the teeny tiny treasure trove, Little Window Shop for an assortment of joyful antiques and accessories. House proud cooks will have a field day in Scott’s of Stow and the Crock Shop.

A shopping trip in Stow is not complete without a mooch along twinkly Talbot Court. It’s a small strip of shops that titillate, from fashion, floristry, candles, jewels, watches, homewares, gift ideas and of course The Stylish Hound, offering locally made dog accessories and a grooming parlour. The Curated Store’s concept is unique – showcasing the works and finds of all-female artists, curators and business owners. This boutique is closed every month, empties and then refills with brand new offerings from all-female businesses. It’s hard to visit and not leave with something and want for everything.

Recommended Walks

Stow-on-the-Wold To… Broadwell

Under 3 miles – Easy

A peaceful, picturesque, easy stroll, tracing King Charles II’s historic escape route.

Opposite Stow police station is the turning ‘Parson’s corner’, head down here until you see only rolling fields ahead and an arrow pointing left ‘Monarchs Way’ – turn left, follow the road up to a house (on your right) – the road then becomes a track, follow the track through fields until you exit onto the Fosseway. This is a main road – although not too busy – so keep to the verge for safety. Turn right and follow the road downhill all the way to the peaceful village of Broadwell with its village green, kids play park and the impressive Fox Inn (pictured). Treat yourself to a pint and knockout nibbles / must try lunch. Booking ahead is essential.

Stow-on-the-Wold To… Oddington

Approx 5 miles – Moderate

Hilly terrain as you ascend Icomb hill, a perfect place to spot muntjac and deer.

Start at the Old Butchers, head downhill to the village of Maugersbury. There’s an option to take the main road (to your left) or the back walker’s path (right – runs down the side of public car park). We recommend the walker’s path, as you immerge into the village you’re greeted with a beautiful views. Continue on Maugersbury Park Road, downhill, cross over onto Chapel Street until you pass Halfmoon House (once captured by artist LS Lowry) on your left. Turn right, downhill, cross farmland, follow signs to Icomb and ascend beautiful Icomb hill. Keep ears and eyes peeled for muntjac and deer. Descend the other side to Lower Oddington. Get yourself a table to refuel in style at The Bamford’s Fox at Oddington. (pictured)